Kashmiri Shawls

Listing ID #2806193

Due to the extreme cold during winter months in Himachal Pradesh, wool weaving became an absolute necessity. Almost all households in the state own a pit-loom. Wool is also considered to be pure and is often used as a ritual cloth. The shawl is one of the most popular and most recognized woven objects. Several types of shawls exist, whether it be fine pashmina or on the other end of the spectrum it could be a shawl made from the coarse material of desar. In Himachal Pradesh, Kullu is famous for the shawls that it produces as they have striking patterns and very vibrant hues. Another popular handicraft in weaving is the Himachali caps that this state produces. They are of a style that is easily recognizable outside Himachal Pradesh and this style differs from region to region. In the town of Kinnaur, shawls, saris and trousers are made from wool. In the Himachali district of Chamba, the weaving pattern is easily recognizable due to its chequered pattern. Apart from shawls, carpets and blankets form an essential part of the lifestyle of residents of Himachal Pradesh.
Weaving :

• Weaving in Himachal Pradesh has been a tradition since ancient times and is also necessary due to the climate. Central Asia played an influential role in the technique of the weaving and the design too. Tibet is another influencer in the weaving sector and the garments produced are extremely popular amongst tourists. Woolen garments along with shawls in himachal Pradesh are knitted at home and are hand woven. While factory produced items are also available they don’t have the same value as those of handmade products. Government run garment shops are places where these items can be easily purchased. It is usually important to verify the authenticity of the garment by looking at the trademark label.
• Shawls and woolen garments made using the raw material of wool. In order to obtain wool several methods are used. Sheep are reared at breeding farms that exist in the districts of Hamirpur, Chamba, Mandi and Kinnaur. Migratory Himalayan goats are another rich source of wool, along with Pashmina goats and angora rabbits. These goats naturally shed their fleece during the summer season. Due to its finer nature, the underbelly is where wool is obtained from in the sheep, since it is finer than the outer body hair. Other sources of wool in Himachal Pradesh are imported wool from Australia. In order to colour the wool into different hues, chemical and vegetable dyes are used.

Weaved Handicrafts :

• The Himachali shawl is essentially a light woolen fabric measuring approximately 1m by 2m . It would usually be draped over and around the shoulder of the wearer and over the chest. It can be made from yarn that is hand spun or even mill spun yarn. The fiber used to make the Himachali shawl can be merino, wool, local sheep wool, Pashmina, Angora or a mixture of various types. The yarn can either be dyed, or it can be made from natural colors.
• Even though a relatively new addition to the traditional Himachal Pradesh attire, it is very popular, especially amongst tourists. Today the handicraft of shawl weaving has become one of the most popular and rising industries in the state. It is responsible for the livelihood for approximately 35000 weavers in Himachal Pradesh.

Woven Craft  :

• Kullu Valley in Himachal Pradesh offers exquisite shawls.  These are in addition to the more mass produce Kullu shawls that are more easily. The hand woven shawls in this region are unique and believed to belong to a craft that is centuries old. The raw material that is used is Merino wool, local sheep wool and Pashmina wool. Primary colors used in Kinnauri shawls are red, orange, pink, blue, green and yellow. White represents water, yellow represents earth and red represents fire, green stands for air and blue for air. In 1927 craftsmen from Rampur migrated to Kullu Valley and thus the craft was transferred to Himachal Pradesh. Most shawls made for commercial use are woven on the frame loom, while the shawls made for local use are mostly woven on pitloom.

Handloom Weaving and Importance :

• The weaving of Himachal Pradesh takes inspiration from the state’s natural surroundings and the auspicious symbols used by the people in the hills. The pattern on woolens are usually geometrical, with the colour palette ranging from blue, saffron, to purples and greens.
• The body of each shawl is a simple twill weave made with colorful inlay pattern set using hand manipulations with coloured woolen threads. Pattu shawls are a speciality of the kully calley and are traditionally made in black and white in a square pattern. This craft is generally used in Kully  Shamshi and Jihhi.